The Logbooks of the Lady Nelson Part 10
"Sat.u.r.day, August 21st. At half-past 4 P.M. saw the Investigator bearing north-north-west, at sundown the Investigator bore north-west by north distant 10 miles, the Sugar Loaf Island bore west by north distant 4 or 5 miles, the Low Island south-west by west distant 3 or 4 miles. At quarter past 8 P.M. heard a gun fired from the Commodore which we answered. At 9 P.M. heard a second gun fired which we answered. At daylight made all sail to come up with Commodore. At 20 past 11 came to with small bower in 7 fathoms.
"Sunday, August 22nd. A.M. Sent the First Mate and a party to water and wood the vessel; hoisted our main keel* (* That is the middle centre board.) out of the trunk and found half of it gone, this must have been occasioned by the shock it received at Faceing Island on Monday 9th instant, when running down to the Investigator. It also accounts for her not sailing so fast as formerly. A.M. Received one boat-load of water. I went on sh.o.r.e to the watering-place, it lies between two hills of a considerable height and springs out of a rock--the water is both good and clear, it is convenient to be got at.* (* The ships anch.o.r.ed in Port Bowen or Number 2 Port, named by Flinders in honour of Captain Jas. Bowen of the Navy, and the hilly projection on the side of its entrance, Cape Clinton after Colonel Clinton of the 85th Regiment. "The water was very good. It drained down the gully to a little beach between two projecting heads. The gully will be easily known, but Mr. Westall's sketch will obviate any difficulty. There were pine trees in the gully, but the best were on Entrance Island, some being fit for topmasts. I was surprised to see trees (upon Hervey Isles) resembling the pines of Norfolk Island."
Flinders.) Lat.i.tude (good) observed 22 degrees 28 minutes 58 seconds south.
"Monday, August 23rd. Reported our main keel to Captain Flinders being gone.
"Tuesday, August 24th. P.M. Hoisted in our launch and secured everything for sea. At daylight weighed and made sail in company with the Investigator. By half-past 7 A.M. got out of the bay and at 11 A.M. came to Pine Island bearing south by east 1/2 east. Distant 1 1/2 miles. Hope Point south by west 6 or 7 miles and the northern entrance south-south-west 2 miles.
"Wednesday, August 25th. At 2 P.M. weighed in company with the Investigator and made all sail. At 7 came to...At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator, worked to windward until 10 A.M. when the Investigator came to in the offing and we came to...between Rocky Island and the main, Rocky Island bearing north-east by north distant 2 1/2 miles...the nearest of the Pine Islands, south-east by east distant 3 miles.
"Thursday, August 26th. At 3 P.M. the Investigator lifted her anchor and worked to windward. At half-past 4 P.M. saw a native fire ahead. At daylight weighed with a light air at north-west. By 6 A.M. the Investigator got close into an opening (seeming a large bay* (* Shoal Water Bay or Number 3 discovered port. See Flinders.)) and hoisted out 2 boats, at 8 A.M. she bore up for the entrance and we followed without sweeps rowing. At half-past 8 A.M. observed the Investigator to anchor and shortly after we were obliged to drop our kedge close to the rocks of the south-eastern entrance. I went on sh.o.r.e with a small party.* (* On this day Mr. Westall made a drawing of Shoal Water Bay and the islands here. Flinders named a high hill Mount Westall in compliment to his landscape painter.) I saw on the beach the footmarks of natives and the tracks of turtle, but nothing else worth mentioning. Apparently this is a place of very huge extent and safe for shipping. Lat.i.tude observed 22 degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds south.
"Friday, August 27th. At 2 P.M. the tide having somewhat slackened and a breeze of wind coming from the north-east weighed and made all sail up the bay; by half-past 2 P.M. having pa.s.sed the Investigator by about a quarter of a mile came to in 6 fathoms water. At 40 minutes past 2 P.M.
the vessel swung to the flood and in half an hour its rate was found to be 3 1/2 knots per hour, it increased from that very nearly 5 knots and its rise 11 feet.* (* This place was named by Flinders Strong Tide Pa.s.sage.) At 6 P.M. one of the Investigator's boats got upset under our stern and one man thrown into the water by the accident. He drifted down with the tide and our boat picked him up with some of the boat's gear. At 6 A.M. got the vessel under weigh and let her drift up the bay with the tide having from 6 to 10 fathoms and from that to 5 and 8 where we anch.o.r.ed. The Investigator anch.o.r.ed a little before us. From where we lay the east point of bay bore north 47 degrees east.
"Sat.u.r.day, August 28th. At 2 P.M. I received orders to get the vessel under weigh and proceed up the bay--half-past 2 P.M. weighed and made sail, the Investigator following us. At half-past 3 P.M. perceived the Investigator to be aground in consequence of which we let go our kedge and I went in the boat ahead. At 5 P.M. on the Investigator floating; again got under weigh, kept standing up the bay sounding and making signals. At 6 P.M. anch.o.r.ed with the small bower in 5 fathoms of water.
"Sunday, August 29th. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator and moved up a little further, sounding from 3 fathoms to 7, where we anch.o.r.ed. Lat.i.tude observed 22 degrees 20 minutes 56 seconds south.
"Monday, August 30th. At 4 P.M. in company with the Commodore made sail a little further up the bay; we perceived a shoal nearly dry on the south-east end, it seemed to lie nearly in that direction for perhaps two miles. Waited on Captain Flinders who desired me to send our main keel on board in order to be repaired and at the same time he informed me that he would be on board in the morning and move the Lady Nelson for the examination of the bay. At daylight sent our keel on board and at half-past 6 Captain Flinders came on board, immediately weighed and made all sail to the south-east part of the bay. At half-past 10 entered a large branch or arm of the bay or river following Captain Flinders in his boat steering east and east-south-east we anch.o.r.ed per order of Captain Flinders and he continued on in his boat.* (* Flinders went two miles up the river, landed, and took a set of angles here. He describes an islet with "signs of visits of the natives" and on the main, in low grounds, were holes where they dug for fern root. An iguana 2 or 3 feet long was the sole animal killed, but the mud banks here were frequented at low water by various sea birds.) Double Peak* bore 1/2 west by south. (* The Double Mountain of Flinders in Shoal Water Bay is not the Double Mountain shown on his earlier chart inland from Hervey Bay.)
"Tuesday, August 31st. At half-past 2 P.M. Captain Flinders on board, and he began to work out of the branch. At 6 P.M. the tide being down came to...at daylight weighed and made sail to south-east, pa.s.sed here a flat of mud with only from 8 to 9 feet water on it; by 7 A.M. having got nearer to the south sh.o.r.e found a channel that had from 2 to 9 fathoms.
"Wednesday, September 1st. At 7 P.M. Captain Flinders, a midshipman and boat's crew on board. A.M. Dropped our small bower it blowing fresh. At 5 A.M. hove it up again, and the wind blowing strong from north-west and tide done, hindered our working down to the Investigator.
"Thursday, September 2nd. At half-past 12 P.M. weighed and began to work to windward with the ebb tide in our favour; at half-past 4 P.M. Captain Flinders and his people left us; continued until 7 P.M. working to north-west and there came to in 7 fathoms. At daylight weighed and stood over to the Investigator and at 7 A.M. came to lowered down boat and I waited on Captain Flinders, he informed me that the Investigator would get under weigh at 9 A.M. and would run over as near to the bottom of Sugar Loaf Hill* (* Pine Mountain (of Flinders) described by him as "a single round hill with a high-peaked top standing inland 2 miles from the West Bight and composed of the greenstone of the German mineralogists.") as the water would permit and requested I would run ahead of him in the Lady Nelson and show soundings quick. Pa.s.sed the Investigator astern, Captain Flinders hailed and desired me to stand up towards Sugar Loaf Hill until we had left less than 6 fathoms, did so and as it almost immediately shoaled to 4 fathoms wore round and made all sail to work back.
"Friday, September 3rd. At half-past 1 P.M. came to with small bower and I waited on Captain Flinders.* (* Flinders was then one mile from the sh.o.r.e and 2 from Aken's Island, the east end of which bore north 27 degrees west.) A.M. Hauled the seine, caught no fish and the ground being foul damaged the net.
"Sat.u.r.day, September 4th. Waited on Captain Flinders who told me he shortly intended to weigh in order to proceed to Thirsty Sound and at 10 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator. Since our arrival here on Thursday the 26th August few native fires have been seen and only once some of the Investigator's gentlemen had intercourse with a party of natives on the sh.o.r.e. From their report those natives are inferior to the natives of Keppel Bay...and if we may guess from their lean appearance much worse off with respect to food; the soil of all this part of the country appears to be very indifferent and for a considerable distance from sh.o.r.e, low swampy mangrove clay. All round the bay are high hills, on one of the westernmost tall pines seem in abundance, the bottom is invariably blue clay...From the number of shoals lying in this place it is necessary to keep the lead constantly going, and from the great rise and fall of the tide to be careful not to anchor in less than 5 fathoms...we have experienced some sea riding at anchor the fetch being pretty extensive.
"Sunday, September 5th. Standing through Northumberland Islands towards Thirsty Sound.* (* Thirsty Sound, Hervey and Bustard Bays among other places on the coast were named by Captain Cook.) At dusk the entrance of Thirsty Sound west by south distance 3 miles, Sugar Loaf Hill, or hill of Pines,* (* The Pine Mount of Flinders.) south-east by east and the Investigator east-north-east distant three-quarters of a mile. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator made sail in for the entrance. Received our new keel from the Investigator, and on trying to fit it to the case found it obstructed from going down by some of the copper being rubbed off and having got into the trunk, this was found to be the case by one of the people who dived under her bottom.* (* The carpenters had for some time been employed in making a sliding keel for the Lady Nelson from the pine logs cut at Port Bowen, and being now finished it was sent on board. Flinders.)
"Monday, September 6th. A.M. On ascending the hill, named by Captain Cook the Pier Head--had a fine view of this and Broad Sound, the former appearing like a serpentine river to a great way inland and its banks showing apparently a fine country. A number of the adjacent hills are covered with long sunburnt gra.s.s that appears at a little distance like a heath or common at home, with here and there a small cl.u.s.ter of palm trees. Traces of the kangaroo have been seen. We have neither seen natives, their fires, nor marks here. No water has yet been found, wood is in plenty.
"Tuesday, September 7th. At 3 P.M. I received orders to get under weigh and move out ahead of the Investigator...At 5 P.M. weighed and at half-past 6 P.M. came to...At 5 A.M. finding she drove, let go our small bower. At 6 A.M. perceived the Investigator attempting to weigh, on which we (after some difficulty) weighed and began to work to windward.
Observed the Investigator to drop her anchor again and clew down her sail. Came to in 6 fathoms with the small bower. Answered signal "I want to see you." Immediately went on board the Investigator and Lieutenant Fowler informed me they had parted a Bower Cable, that, their Stream not bringing her up, a second Bower was gone and that they were in 1/2 2 fathoms water, as the tide was rapidly falling it was obvious that she immediately must be got off. For this purpose I immediately, according to Lieutenant Fowler's plan, returned on board, veered away on our small bower to the end and let go our best bower; we then received a warp from the Investigator, made it fast on board and she was enabled to heave off into deeper water by the Lady Nelson. At noon she dropped her bower a little from our stern, cast off her warp and lifted our best bower...
"Wednesday, September 8th. Cloudy weather. At half-past 9 A.M. the Investigator shifted her berth into the stream...At half-past 6 A.M.
weighed in company with the Commodore made all sail out of the Sound. At noon a large island in the entrance of Broad Sound south distance 5 miles, and the Investigator east distance 1 mile.* (* At this time the ships were within 2 miles of the north-east point of Broad Sound.)
"Thursday, September 9th. Stretching across Broad Sound, at half-past 1 P.M. suddenly shoaled our water at the same time saw the appearance of broken water ahead. At 2 P.M. spoke the Commodore who told me to steer west. A round mount north-west by west distance 3 miles. At 11 P.M. came to in company with the Commodore with best bower in 7 fathoms water. In the course of the forenoon saw several native fires on this part of the coast. Lat.i.tude observed 21 degrees 51 minutes 00 seconds south.
"Friday, September 10th. At 2 P.M. weighed and made sail to the south-east sounding from 1/2 3 at low water to 1/4 less 2 on the edge of a sand shoal on which the Investigator touched but immediately swung off, we continuing. At half-past 5 A.M. perceived the Investigator to be getting under weigh, made all sail down to the Commodore. Spoke him; he told me to work between the main and one of Northumberland Islands, and said he would follow us. Stood on to windward and tacked occasionally anch.o.r.ed in company with the Commodore at half-past 11 A.M. under a pleasant little island.* (* "The 4th flat Island is about one mile long and there is a smaller lying off it's south-east end. They are a little elevated and bear gra.s.s and small trees, but the sh.o.r.es are covered with mangroves and surrounded with flats of mud and sand." Flinders.) Observed Captain Flinders to go on sh.o.r.e, shortly afterwards I went on sh.o.r.e, some turtle sh.e.l.ls were seen and the marks of natives of an ancient date. It appears that the whole of the distance between the Pier Head at Thirsty Sound and to the round mount before mentioned between the Northumberland Islands and the main has a number of sand shoals that can only be avoided by keeping the lead constantly going and a good lookout at the head otherwise a vessel would get aground, and the water falling so much and so rapidly would leave her high and dry...
"Sat.u.r.day, September 11th. At 6 A.M. weighed ill company with the Investigator but she (on account of the shoals that lye off from the mainland to the island we anch.o.r.ed under) was obliged at 7 A.M. to drop her anchor. In the Lady Nelson we crossed the shoal in only 9 feet immediately on being over it we fell into 3, 4, and 5 fathoms. Again crossed it and ran up to the Investigator at 9 A.M., the flood having made strong over the shoal again.
"Sunday, September 12th. At quarter-past 5 P.M. tacked and stood on ahead of the Investigator until we were close to a very extensive sheet of mud lying all the way from the mainland. At this place an inlet of shoal water appeared to run a good distance into the country. At sundown tacked in company with the Investigator and stood off. At 8 A.M. tacked and stood into an inlet with several dry lands appearing in it, found a good strong flood against us. At half-past 9 A.M. came to.* (* "At 9 A.M.
pa.s.sed a fifth opening: anch.o.r.ed abreast of a hilly projection which I have named Upper Head." Flinders.) Lowered our boat and I went on sh.o.r.e with a couple of hands. Saw or found nothing worth notice--the soil is sandy, the sh.o.r.es lined with mangrove trees and inland a little distance we found gum trees and the palm; a few curlews and redbills were shot.
"Monday, September 13th. At half-past 8 weighed as per signal in company with the Commodore; found when near the Investigator the water suddenly to shoal from 6 to 3 to 1, where we touched the ground, however on heaving up our keel she went off into 2 fathoms, when we came to, observed the Investigator to ground, she was caught on a bank of quicksand in 11 feet at half-past 10 A.M. she floated, a little after Captain Flinders went away insh.o.r.e, sounding. Several native fires in sight in different directions.
"Tuesday, September 14th. At half-past 1 P.M. made sail in company with the Investigator and worked to north-west where we anch.o.r.ed. On pa.s.sing her Captain Flinders hailed us and told me to be ready at 8 o'clock in the morning to proceed to the south-east up the arm on Broad Sound. At 8 A.M. Captain Flinders and Mr. Brown on board. At half-past 8 A.M. weighed and made sail, at 40 minutes past 10 A.M. grounded in 8 feet of water, at 40 minutes past 11 A.M. weighed and made sail across the entrance of the river. From noon until 40 minutes past 1 P.M. stretching across the flats of this arm, sounding from 9 feet to 3 1/4 fathoms, where we anch.o.r.ed.
Immediately moored with the kedge which in a little time she brought home, moored with the bowers per cable one way and 25 fathoms the other, found the tide of ebb to run at 4 P.M. 5 knots and 6 fathoms. At 5 P.M.
we began to touch the ground and perceived that our main keel was gone, part of it coming up alongside. Sent some of the people out to look in what situation our anchor lay and it was found that the best bower had come home and the small parted 12 fathoms from the ring. I conclude the ragged part of the main keel must have done it when she swung in ground, we tried in vain with 10 or 11 hands to lift it out of its bed. As the whole of this part of the flats are quicksands with a strong suction, bent a good warp to its crown to weigh it by when the tide rose. At half-past 1 A.M. the flood came to us with much noise and about a foot high, in 15 minutes we floated and hove up to our best bower. By 5 A.M.
began again to ground, by 6 A.M. fast: at half-past 7 A.M. Captain Flinders went in his boat in search of deeper water and found one place nearer insh.o.r.e where he thought it advisable to shift the Lady Nelson to, when the tide would permit. Upon the south sh.o.r.e we saw several native fires.
"Thursday, September 16th. At 2 P.M. loosed sails, sheeted home and hoisted them, weighed and stood in sh.o.r.e. Found the strength of the tide here to be 3 1/2 knots.
"Friday, September 17th. At half-past 5 P.M. Captain Flinders returned having found the arm to terminate in shoals of sand. At 3 A.M. weighed and made sail in order to join the Investigator but by half-past 4 A.M. we grounded and there were obliged to lye from the ebb falling so fast. Captain Flinders, Mr.
Brown and the boat's crew left us. Here we had an opportunity of looking at the vessel's bottom, the sand being firm. Found one sheet and a half of copper torn off her garboard streak, one off the starboard bow, and on the bows the anchor had torn the copper in some degree; from the want of copper nails could not repair those hurts until we joined the Investigator.
"Sat.u.r.day, September 18th. At 2 P.M. weighed and began to work to windward...anch.o.r.ed near the Investigator. A.M. I waited on Captain Flinders and was advised to lay the Lady Nelson on sh.o.r.e in order to repair her copper; in consequence of which Lieutenant Fowler and I went to examine a sand insh.o.r.e of the vessels and finding that sand fit for the purpose, reported the same to Captain Flinders; got our main keel out of the trunk, found 4 feet of it gone and also 4 feet of the after keel carried away.* (* "The Lady Nelson...required some reparation, I therefore desired Lieutenant Murray to lay his vessel on sh.o.r.e and get these matters arranged to cut wood and be ready to sail in a week for the Torres Strait." Flinders.)
"Sunday, September 19th. At half-past 6 A.M. weighed and ran into 5 feet water. At half-past 8 A.M. the Investigator weighed and stood to the eastward. At 9 A.M. we grounded; by noon we were able to replace part of the copper torn off her bottom.
"Monday, September 20th. Fine weather throughout. By 3 P.M. she floated, weighed, ran into 5 fathoms water and anch.o.r.ed. At 6 A.M. weighed and grounded.
"Tuesday, September 21st. At 3 P.M. she began to float, by 4 hove her off, weighed and ran into 5 fathoms water where we anch.o.r.ed. A.M. Sent a party on sh.o.r.e to cut wood. Investigator still in sight.
"Wednesday, September 22nd. A party on sh.o.r.e cutting wood and stuff for brooms. A.M. Received on board two boat-loads of wood; sent a party after kangaroo, some were seen at a distance but none were shot. Shifted the fore keel aft and the after one (when we had repaired it as well as we could) forward. The main keel we could not make fit after our carpenter had worked on it several days, I rather suppose the trunk is injured in its inside.
"Thursday, September 23rd. Set up our rigging and stays fore and aft; sent the carpenter on sh.o.r.e to cut spars to fit our several guns on.
"Friday, September 24th. Fine weather, moderate winds throughout. A.M.
Perceived the Investigator under weigh standing over to us.
"Sat.u.r.day, September 25th. The Investigator in sight working towards us; at half-past 8 A.M. she came to an anchor within half a mile of us. I waited on Captain Flinders and informed him we were ready for sea.
"Sunday, September 26th. The Investigator struck her tents on sh.o.r.e.
Received from her gunner half a barrel of gunpowder and one quire of musket cartridge paper, and 17 fathoms of old rope for lashing beams.
"Monday, September 27th. At half-past 6 A.M. Weighed in company with the Investigator made all sail to the north-west. We were both obliged to come to; the wind freshening, we weighed, but it again dying away we anch.o.r.ed. At half-past 9.A.M. made sail.
"Tuesday, September 28th. At half-past 3 A.M. weighed in company with H.M.S. Investigator and made sail to northward. At 6 A.M. spoke the Commodore and received orders to keep ahead. A high island we pa.s.sed this morning south by west distant 12 or 14 miles,* (* North Point Island.) a high short island under our lee north-west by west distant 10 or 11 miles. Long high land on our weather bow north-east by north distant 11 or 12 miles.* (* Percy Islands.) Lat.i.tude observed 21 degrees 52 minutes 41 seconds south.
"Wednesday, September 29th. Stood after the Commodore. At this time I perceived that several of the islands in sight were covered with pines of the same kind as Port Number 2. At half-past 7 P.M. anch.o.r.ed with the kedge; answered a signal light from the Investigator with one at the main. At daylight weighed and stood towards the Investigator. At half-past 5 A.M. she also weighed and we proceeded a little nearer to the large island mentioned in yesterday's log and on turn of tide we came to.
Observed Captain Flinders* (* "Not a single native was seen either on the sh.o.r.es of Thirsty or Broad Sound during...our stay." Flinders.) in his whale-boat go ash.o.r.e with several of the officers and gentlemen, not to the large island but to a small island within about 2 miles of it and from which it bore west-south-west.* (* "We landed first at the islet where the same kind of pine is seen as at Port Bowen." Flinders.) At half-past 9 A.M. hove up and made towards the Commodore who was under weigh, standing on to the body of a large pine island. Kept standing up for a sandy beach on the southern end of the large Pine Island and at half-past 11 A.M. the Commodore dropped anchor; stood on past him and at noon came to with the kedge* (* At Number 2 Island, the largest of the Percy Islands.) the small Pine Island bearing south-west by west distant 1 1/4 miles Peak of Pines like a sugar loaf north distant 5 or 6 miles.*... (* "To the northern Percy Isles, each of which is a hill somewhat peaked but that on Number 3 is much the most so and the highest...is called Pine Peak." Flinders.)
"Thursday, September 30th. I went on sh.o.r.e and by a narrow pa.s.sage entered a sheet of water entirely surrounded by the mountainous part of the island, with here and there pines which on the whole has a beautiful and romantic appearance. I searched for fresh water but found none, however Captain Flinders found plenty. A.M. I went on sh.o.r.e with a party in order to clear a rolling way for our casks as also did captain Flinders and Lieutenant Fowler with 20 men, by noon this was completed and the well began to be dug and cleared out; by an unlucky accident the dry gra.s.s with which most of the ground is covered caught fire and burnt with great fury driving the people away from the princ.i.p.al watering-place.
"Friday, October 1st. On sh.o.r.e digging wells and clearing them out. By half-past 3 P.M. the fire had increased so as to make us retreat to the sandy beach and even here it nearly reached us by 7 P.M. It continued to burn all night...covering the whole of the hills (particularly the tops) with a fringe of white fire while all the way down to the bases resembled a large town on a dark night well lighted up. By the morning it had considerably abated.
"Sat.u.r.day, October 2nd. Employed completing our water which was done by sunset and the hold stowed. Secured everything for sea. The Investigator continued watering. Found a part of our best bower cable so much decayed from wear that I cut off, from the anchor end, 15 fathoms and fresh bent it again. Before we leave this island I think it proper to observe it lies (from where we lay at anchor) about north by east and south by west its lat.i.tude is 21 degrees 40 minutes 02 seconds south and its longitude by Timekeeper 150 degrees 23 minutes 27 seconds east, it will easily be known from a high peak of stones that at a distance will look like its northern end. On this peak several pines are growing. On its northern end is a sandy beach from which the entrance of the circular sheet of water is immediately seen. On this beach we caught the first day plenty of fish and it is remarkable that since few have been caught. Bearing south-west from this place at about 2 miles distance is a small island of pines with two or three rocks lying about it, to the westward at a distance of 8 or 9 miles is a rugged island with two peaks covered with pines, one of them much higher than the other, and to the north-west about 10 or 11 miles is an island of table-land with a bluff head on its southern end all round are islands of different sizes but this watering island cannot be mistaken or missed.
"Monday, October 4th. At 6 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator and made sail to the Northward.
"Tuesday, October 5th. Worked to windward...at 5 P.M. tacked. At sundown the Stony Peak on watering island bore south by west high peak of Pines west distant 2 1/2 or 3 miles. At noon the high Peak of Pines bore south-west by south distant about 17 or 18 miles, the peak on Watering Island south-south-west distant 19 or 20 miles.* (* Mr. Murray seems to have given Number 2 offing the name of Watering Island.)