The Logbooks of the Lady Nelson Part 11
"Wednesday, October 6th. At half-past 1 answered signal "Follow me,"
answered signal "Make sail ahead." At this time we saw a long range of sand reefs in the east and west direction and three small rocks bore north-east by north distant 2 1/2 or 3 miles.* (* "They were not those seen by Mr. Campbell though they form part of the same barrier...The reefs were not dry with the exception of some black lumps which resembled the round heads of negroes, these being dead coral." Flinders.) Answered signal of 'Danger,' following the Investigator and keeping a good lookout from the mast-head. At half-past 1 P.M. the high peak of pines bore south-south-west distant about 22 miles which proves those extensive reefs to be placed very erroneously on the chart owing to the incorrectness of Messrs. Swaine and Campbell, they having laid them down nearly 2 degrees off the land instead of which they are only distant 20 miles from the nearest island. Quarter past 6 P.M. came to in 28 fathoms with the kedge; the Investigator north-east by north quarter of a mile distant.* (* "At six anch.o.r.ed in 27 fathoms coa.r.s.e sand." Flinders.) At daylight the Investigator began to heave up and we did the same, by 6 A.M. made sail. Received orders to keep ahead with a good lookout for shoals. Saw a shoal of sand with two small rocks on it from north-east; at half-past 10 A.M. being within 2 miles of the shoal tacked. At noon the rocks on the shoal bore north-west a little westerly distant 2 miles.
Received additional instructions signals and cd. from Captain Flinders.*
(* "I sent a boat with instructions to Lieutenant Murray...in case of our separation." Flinders.)
"Thursday, October 7th. Stood on after the Investigator and weathered the last-mentioned reef of coral. At half-past 4 A.M. weighed and made sail to the south-east. At half-past 10 A.M. saw a reef of coral ahead, several parts of which were above water considerably much like the appearance of boats under sail.* (* "Upon these reefs were more of the dry black lumps called negro heads." Flinders.)
"Friday October 8th. At half-past 5 P.M. tacked to the northward, reefs still in sight. At 9 A.M. tacked after the Commodore, a reef of coral rock bearing east to east-north-east distant 4 or 4 1/2 miles. At noon the Investigator bore north by east distant 1 1/2 miles, a shoal of sand apparently bearing north distant 5 or 6 miles, another bearing north-east by north distant 4 miles and a small rock on an extensive shoal of sand east by south distant 1 1/2 miles, this shoal seems to stretch a long way from east-south-east to north-east. Lat.i.tude observed 20 degrees 54 minutes 42 seconds south.
"Sat.u.r.day, October 9th. From 2 P.M. until 3 (after having weathered the East point of this shoal) we ran along its other side. At half-past 5 P.M. came to. From the mast-head shoals in every direction. At half-past 5 A.M. weighed in company with the Commodore and stood to the north-east.
9 A.M. Perceiving a strong ripple close to us and supposing it to be shoal water let go our kedge and made the signal of danger to the Commodore who also came to and sent his boats to sound as did we but found no less than 15 fathoms. At 11 A.M. the Investigator's whale-boat made the signal for shoal water and the Commodore made the signal to anchor which we immediately did in 22 fathoms, bottom small coral and sh.e.l.ls. The Investigator also anch.o.r.ed. We found ourselves within a cable's length of a shoal and all round shoals of sand and extensive coral reefs. Lat.i.tude observed 20 degrees 51 minutes 38 seconds south.
"Sunday, October 10th. P.M. Sent the boat to examine the reefs of coral near us. At 4 P.M. the boat returned on board; found the coral to be of many different colours--blue, yellow, green, and in short in every colour we know of--found some very large c.o.c.kles and a few small sh.e.l.ls--found the tide to ebb to run due north-east not less than 2 1/2 knots but when it sallys over the flats and reefs it may be 5 knots. At half-past 4 P.M.
weighed and sent the boat ahead to tow and got our sweeps on. At 45 minutes past 5 A.M. made sail in company with the Commodore stood on ahead with the Investigator's boat ahead of us sounding. This morning we pa.s.sed a great deal of suspicious water but saw no rocks or shoals dry.
"Monday, October 11th. Stood on ahead of the Investigator broken water and reefs on both sides of us. At half-past 4 P.M. saw some very extensive reefs ahead, they seemed to train as far aft as our beam one each side of us. An appearance of an opening shows itself to the west-north-west as also one to the North, all else is broken water, reefs of coral and patches of coa.r.s.e whitish sand or more probably coral. At half-past 5 A.M. weighed and made sail to the northward keeping ahead of the Investigator half a mile, and her boat ahead of us sounding.* (*
"Next morning the brig and whale-boat went ahead and we steered after them. The east opening was choaked up and we had scarcely entered that to the West when Mr. Murray made a signal for 'danger' the Lady Nelson was carried rapidly to the south-east seemingly without being sensible of it...I made the signal of recall." Flinders.) After running on this course about a mile and a half and being then close up to the tail of the coral reef north-east of us we suddenly found ourselves in 4 fathoms of water and plainly saw the bottom consisting of large rocks of coral.
Immediately made the signal of 'Danger' to the Commodore. We shoaled into 2 fathoms tacked and running south we found a very rapid tide with us and on pa.s.sing between two reefs the current of tide I imagine could not be less than 6 knots. During this time the Investigator followed after us, but at 7 A.M. she made the signal to anchor. When she was a little brought up we had no bottom with 50 fathoms of line and on her breaking her sheer she at once broke the warp 65 fathoms from ye kedge, both of which we lost. I fancy it got round the top of a rock of coral as we have reason to suspect it foul ground. Immediately made all sail and stood towards the Investigator and the wind fortunately freshening we pa.s.sed her and acquainted Captain Flinders with our loss. He told me to anchor near him.* (* "We rode a great strain on the strain cable, it parted and we lost an anchor. Mr. Murray had lost a kedge and was then riding by a bower." Flinders.) Accordingly at 9 A.M. we anch.o.r.ed but she quickly drove into the stream of tide, and there, to my surprise, the anchor held on. Answered signal 'Weigh,' tried to do so but found it impossible--held fast--in a little time the tide slackened somewhat and Captain Flinders sent a boat and men to a.s.sist in getting up our anchor, began to heave up and were fortunate enough to get it with the loss of one arm, the cable not much damaged--made sail after the Commodore. Received from H.M.S.
Investigator 2 grapplings.* (* "Our anchor had swivelled in the stock.
Sent Mr. Murray 2 grapnels, which were all that our losses could allow of being spared." Flinders.)
"Tuesday, October 12th. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator and made sail to the northward. At half-past 7 A.M. We both came to...
"Wednesday, October 13th. At 1 P.M. weighed in company with the Commodore and made all sail; by half-past 2 P.M. reefs in sight from north to east-north-east..At daylight lay to for the Investigator who joined us by 7 A.M. On sounding we found the bottom altered from coa.r.s.e sand, coral and broken sh.e.l.ls to very fine sand and small sh.e.l.ls...the wind favouring us the Commodore stood on. The appearance of the water this morning has been suspicious, however, I imagine it is caused by the sun's reflection, and being calm, the Investigator's boat has been ahead all morning. At half-past 10 A.M. the Commodore came to and we did the same with the two grapplings backing one another, and they held on.
"Thursday, October 14th. At half-past 5 P.M. reefs of coral in sight; body of them distant 2 1/2 or 3 miles. At daylight weighed in company with the Investigator and stood to southward; at half-past 7 A.M. reefs of coral in sight, three middling large rocks seen bearing south by east; we also at this time saw the land bearing west-south-west distant 14 or 15 leagues, made the signal of seeing it to the Investigator: by 8 A.M.
perceived it was islands, three in number. At noon one island bore west by north distant 6 or 7 miles. This island appears very barren and rocky, and an island that, from its appearance took to be the Isle of Pines, next Watering Island south-south-east distant 16 or 17 miles.
"Friday, October 15th. 6 P.M. What I suppose to be the Peak of Pines near Watering Island bore south by east distant 22 or 24 miles: Barren Island west by south distant 6 or 7 miles: high hummocks of land west distant about 9 miles.
"Sunday, October 16th. At 4 P.M. a large island with a fire on it bore south-west by south distant 6 or 7 miles: a lowish island of rugged land south by east distant 7 or 8 miles: an island with two hills on it south-west by west distant 5 or 6 miles: a low island with several hillocks west-south-west distant 8 or 9 miles. At sundown pa.s.sed within a quarter of a mile of a high perpendicular peak of one of c.u.mberland Isles, and at half-past 6 P.M. anch.o.r.ed in 20 fathoms with the small bower, bottom fine blue sand. Commodore anch.o.r.ed distant 1/4 of a mile.
At 6 A.M. I went on sh.o.r.e in order to look for water as well as to see what the island produced, we cut down a couple of pines, fit one for a top-mast the other for a top-sail yard. On this island a number of pines are growing, some palm trees one of which Mr. Brown, the naturalist of the Investigator, thinks is not common. This island is not inhabited but seems occasionally to be visited. Two of the other islands are inhabited as on both of them were fires last night. On the north-west side is a beach of coa.r.s.e coral and sand, on which a few dried sh.e.l.ls were picked up, from this beach a considerable way out the bottom large coral rocks.
A number of porpoises and sharks were seen about us this forenoon but none caught.
"Sunday, October 17th. At 6 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator, made sail to northward; by noon the c.u.mberlands from south by south-west to west by north; and the Investigator east by south distant 4 miles. From the colour of the water and a long steady swell I judge we are nearly clear of the northern extremity of the reefs. I have now had several opportunities of seeing that from the want of our main and after keels we are so leewardly that the Investigator in 6 hours will get with ease 4 miles to windward of the brig.
"Monday, October 18th. Stood on after the Investigator. At 6 P.M. she anch.o.r.ed within half a mile of us, on which I immediately came to in 34 fathoms with the small bower. Saw a boat lowered and in half an hour Lieutenant Fowler came on board and informed me that Captain Flinders meant to part company in the morning with the brig and therefore to get all ready for that purpose.* (* The Lady Nelson sailed so ill "that she not only caused us delay but ran great risk of being lost. The zeal he (Lieutenant Murray) had shown...increased my regret...at parting from our little consort." Flinders.) At daylight hoisted out our long boat and sent her on board the Investigator. I received from Captain Flinders orders to proceed to Port Jackson with the Lady Nelson as fast as circ.u.mstances would allow. I also received a letter on service to His Excellency Governor King, as well as some private letters. Half-past 8 A.M. I took leave of Captain Flinders and returned on board, hove up. At this time the Investigator hoisted her colours and we did the same, she standing away to the westward and we to the southward. By 40 minutes past 10 A.M. we took our last view of H.M.S. Investigator, her top-gallant-sails just being in the vane of the horizon.* (* At "9 o'clock got under weigh and showed our colours to bid farewell to the Lady Nelson." Flinders.) At noon c.u.mberland Island in sight, a large one distant 10 or 11 miles. Discharged to H.M.S. Investigator, Mr. Lacy, Henry Willis and Thomas Shirly and received in lieu Jeremiah Wolsey and Nanbury (a native).* (* "Nanbarre, one of the two natives, having expressed a wish to go back to Port Jackson was sent to the Lady Nelson in the morning." Flinders.) Lat.i.tude observed 20 degrees 178 minutes 16 seconds south.
"Tuesday, October 19th. By half-past 5 P.M. having run in between two very high islands covered with pines, came to in 10 fathoms water with the small bower, as the highest of the islands was in several places on fire. I lowered our boat and sent the First Mate in her to speak to the natives who I supposed must be on the island but when he returned, he told me few of their traces were seen. A part of one of their canoes was found and brought on board, from its appearance I deemed it not much superior in structure from those of the natives of Sydney. From where we lay (which is safe and secure anchorage with a blue clay bottom) the high peak of the nearest or eastern of those islands bore east-south-east, the rest of the c.u.mberlands lying in all directions of us. At daylight weighed and stood to the north-north-east, kept tacking occasionally to windward as it was my wish to get sight of the island we last watered at chiefly to ascertain whether the Timekeeper had kept its rate. At noon wore as she repeatedly missed stays from the want of her keels and a short confused sea ahead.
"Wednesday, October 20th. From noon till 2 P.M. kept trying to work to windward but she refusing stays I bore away for our former anchorage which having gained at 3 P.M. came to. Lowered down the boat and I went on sh.o.r.e unarmed supposing that should the island have any natives on it, they might be induced to show themselves. I was disappointed for I neither saw them or anything of consequence, one tree or plant excepted, which I had never seen before: as Nanbury, a native of Sydney on board, said he knew nothing of such a tree, as well as some people who had been a long time in New South Wales...I took a large specimen of it on board and hope it will keep.
"Thursday, October 21st. P.M. Sent a party on sh.o.r.e to examine the highest peak of the island to look for water and to get the bearings of the island. When they returned I was informed that the southernmost point of the main (which I presume is Cape Hillsborough) bore south-east 1/2 east. It was the mate's opinion natives had been there a few days ago, as round their fires were plenty of turtle bones scattered about. Our anchorage last left bore south by west distant 2 miles.
"Friday, October 22nd. At 8 P.M. came to in our old anchorage. At 8 weighed, cleared the narrow pa.s.sage between the islands we anch.o.r.ed under...we had chosen the worst place they afford: as on this side from the number of islands that lie all around as well as Cape Hillsborough and the island off it, we found the water quiet and smooth. 9 A.M. Made all sail for a large island to the south-east and by noon were abreast of its eastern extremity. This island has the most romantic and beautiful appearance of any I have ever beheld and from its north-west point to its north-east point is nothing but a continuation of safe and well-sheltered bays, the sh.o.r.es of which consist of white sand beaches intercepted here and there with patches of coral rocks: the edges of these in several places are lined with low mangroves, behind which tall pines rise, forming a beautiful contrast, these however rise not so high as to intercept our view of bold front-land which much resembles the hills of Norfolk when the grain on them is ripe, and over all these towering to a great height rise the inland hills covered with very high pines, on the whole I scarcely ever saw so fine a view. At noon the body of it bore north 1/2 east distant 3 miles, island of anchorage north-north-west distant 14 miles, an island at which I mean to anchor for the night (if we reach it) east by E. distant 6 or 7 miles. Lat.i.tude observed 20 degrees 48 minutes 44 seconds south.
"Sat.u.r.day, October 23rd. By half-past 4 P.M. came to with our broken bower and it held her safe all night although the remaining arm did not take, a thing by the way rather odd as I had a short boom slung to it. 4 A.M. weighed and made all sail for Watering Island. By noon a remarkable peak on the mainland south-west, several other islands in sight in different directions. Since leaving Broad Sound until now the sea had been constantly covered in different places with an oily brown slime insomuch that it has often occasioned me to suspect shoal water.
"Sunday, October 24th. At sundown the body of Watering Island bore distant 10 or 11 miles, some other of the Northumberland islands bearing from north to south-west. We found the soundings to be from 18 to 10 fathoms, being inside some of the Offing Islands and within the westernmost edge of the extensive barrier reefs 20 miles. At 6 P.M. came to with our broken anchor. At midnight weighed and made for Watering Island with all sail. By 6 A.M. got within three miles of our late anchorage where we came to, body of Stony Peak of the Island bearing east-south-east. At 40 minutes past 9 A.M. again weighed...At noon got within one mile and a half of the anchorage.
"Monday, October 25th. By half past 1 P.M. having with the help of our sweeps gained nearly our old berth came to, I went on sh.o.r.e, found our well overflowing with good clear water. By noon our water was completed.
A duck, pigeon and pheasant were shot on the hills to-day.
"Tuesday, October 26th. At daylight weighed and made sail. By 8 A.M. the rocky peak on the north end of Watering Island distant 10 or 11 miles.
Stood on through the Offing Isles of Northumberland Islands.
"Wednesday, October 27th. At 6 P.M. it being nearly calm came to in 17 fathoms with our broken anchor, Cape Townsend* (* Cape Townshend.) bearing south-east distant 3 or 5 miles, hill of Pines (its base) south-west distant 9 or 10 miles. A confused sea made me determined at slack water to weigh and run into better anchorage, at half-past 10 A.M.
weighed and made sail up under Cape Townsend.
"Thursday, October 28th. At 1/4 past 1 P.M. came to with our broken anchor, veered away, but on her bringing up the cable parted although the strain was very trifling. The other bower was let go and it did not for some time bring her up. Perceiving all hopes of regaining our anchor or cable to be in vain, from our having so considerably shifted our berth as well as our having only one small boat, she almost in pieces, and it being absolutely necessary to get from here into a place of safety, I got two of the swivel guns cross-lashed, in short made as good an anchor of them as their nature would admit of, hoping that in light winds and smooth waters they would somewhat save our only remaining anchor. At 3 P.M. made sail further up into Shoal Water Bay, where we anch.o.r.ed with the swivels; they held her, there being no tide and but little wind. At 40 minutes past 7 P.M. let go the bower anchor and in the morning weighed it as well as the swivels and made sail up the Bay, where we anch.o.r.ed; lowered down the boat and sent the seine to haul, also the carpenter to look for a tree that might make a wooden anchor which with being loaded would answer in case of necessity.
"Friday, October 29th. Carpenter employed on the iron-bark anchor.
"Sat.u.r.day, October 30th. At half-past 10 A.M. weighed and made sail towards the southern outlet of the bay. By the time we got within a mile and a half of it we had light baffling flaws all round; this outlet is narrow and several sunken rocks lie scattered about. We anch.o.r.ed as much out of the tide as possible.
"Sunday, October 30th.* (* Evidently meant to be the 31st.) 1 P.M. hove up and made sail into snug anchorage, came to in 1/4 5 fathoms...By 5 P.M. the wooden anchor being finished bent our small bower cable to it, hove up the bower and let go the wood anchor which however did not ride her, we therefore dropped the bower again and let the other remain in hopes that by getting the water lodged (as its weight would consequently increase) it might ride us in soft ground.
"Monday, November 1st. P.M. The party that were on sh.o.r.e returned, they informed me that one very large kangaroo was shot but escaped owing to the thickness of the bush, some small ones were also seen; a couple of pheasants and a pigeon were shot. A.M. sent two men on sh.o.r.e in order to try for a kangaroo.
"Tuesday, November 2nd. I would have gone to sea had the tide not been running strong into the Bay. Weighed our wooden anchor and loaded it with two swivels, this I would imagine would ride her in moderate weather.
"Wednesday, November 3rd. At 8 A.M. weighed and made all sail to windward. By 10 A.M. flood having made in we were obliged to come to with our wooden anchor which I had the satisfaction to see held on.
"Thursday, November 4th. Half-past 3 P.M. weighed and worked to windward the outlet of the bay. By 5 P.M. gained the narrows of the entrance.
Found a very strong tide running out. By 6 P.M. cleared the outlet.
"Friday, November 5th. From 1 P.M. to 5 running through Keppel's Islands south. At daylight land in sight from West to south by west; set studding-sails.
"Sat.u.r.day, November 6th. From noon to 3 P.M. fresh winds and gloomy weather with dripping rain and some distant thunder. Saw Sandy Cape bearing east-south-east distant 10 or 11 miles could not see the land...came to with our wood anchor in 12 fathoms, Sandy Cape bearing south-east by east distant 10 miles...
"Sunday, November 7th. Until half-past 3 P.M. we stood along the northern edge of Breaksea Spit when, it being calm, came to in 14 fathoms water with our wood anchor, Sandy Cape bearing south-east by south distant 10 or 11 miles...
"Monday, November 8th. At half-past 9 A.M. Sandy Cape bore south distant 18 miles. At 10 A.M. saw Breaksea Spit breaking from south-west by south to West distant about 6 miles. At noon tacked to the northward, Sandy Cape bearing south by west distant 10 miles.
"Tuesday, November 9th. A high sea throughout. At noon no land in sight.
Lat.i.tude observed 24 degrees 19 minutes 58 seconds south.
"Wednesday, November 10th. At Sundown Sandy Cape bore west 1/2 south distant 10 miles Sandy Point west distant 10 or 11 miles, spit breaking very high out to west by north, the southern extremes of land bearing south distant 14 miles, favourable.
"Thursday, November 11th. At noon fine weather and moderate winds with a confused sea. All sail set, the extremes of the land bearing from south-west to north-west distant each 7 or 8 leagues. Lat.i.tude observed 25 degrees 38 minutes 50 seconds south.
"Friday, November 12th. At sundown Double Island Point west 1/2 south distant 6 or 7 leagues; at 10 P.M. tacked to the southward...At noon the Gla.s.s Houses on Gla.s.s House Bay south-west by south distant 6 or 7 leagues.
"Sat.u.r.day, November 13th. At daylight no land in sight, at 8 A.M. saw land bearing south-west distant 6 or 7 leagues.
"Sunday, November 14th. At 10 A.M. after a deal of rain a light air sprung up at north. Observed Lat.i.tude Dead Reckoning 26 degrees 38 minutes 00 seconds south.
"Monday, November 15th. At 8 A.M. saw some high land bearing west-south-west distant 8 leagues. Until noon we had light squalls and very hard rain. No observation of Lat.i.tude 27 degrees 35 minutes 00 seconds: I conclude myself to be one degree more to South than the D.R.*
(* Dead Reckoning.) gives and not so far East by about 14 or 15 miles.