The Logbooks of the Lady Nelson Part 9
There was at this time a very great need of a proper survey of these sh.o.r.es, particularly of the portion which now forms the Queensland coast and of the reefs that skirt it. Since the days when Cook in the Endeavour had discovered these reefs, except when Flinders sailed to Hervey Bay in 1799, little had been done to make this part of Australia better known, although in the vicinity of the Great Barrier Reef both land and sea were alike dangerous to seamen and disasters were of frequent occurrence. Cook himself had met with a mishap in these waters, and Flinders afterwards was totally wrecked on the inner edge of the Great Barrier Reef.
Consequently, in agreeing to Flinders' proposal, King was conferring a real benefit upon the whole of the shipping community. It was also decided that in the event of Flinders' progress being r.e.t.a.r.ded, or if he were unable to examine the Gulf of Carpentaria, he should either explore Torres Strait or return and survey Fiji. Eventually, however, it was found possible for him to carry out the exploration of the Gulf.
Mr. Westall, landscape painter, with Mr. Robert Brown, botanist, and other scientists, sailed in the Investigator. Bungaree, the Rose Bay native who had accompanied Flinders on his voyage in the Norfolk to Hervey Bay also went with him as well as a Sydney black fellow named Nanbury. Murray was given a code of signals for the Lady Nelson and was directed by Flinders, in case of the ships being separated, to repair to Hervey Bay, which he was to enter by a pa.s.sage between Sandy Cape and Breaksea Spit said to have been found by South Sea whalers.
The two ships left Sydney together on July 22nd, 1802, but the Lady Nelson was soon in difficulties, and was left astern at Port Stephens.
Shortly afterwards the Investigator lay to, to await her coming. On Sat.u.r.day 24th--writes Flinders, "our little consort being out of sight we stood an hour to the southward, and not seeing her in that direction bore away along the coast." Meanwhile on the afternoon of July 26th, Moreton Island at the entrance of Moreton Bay was pa.s.sed, and on Wednesday the 28th, Flinders reached Sandy Cape where he immediately began to seek for a pa.s.sage into Hervey Bay. One was found but proved too shallow for the Investigator to pa.s.s through, so the ship was brought to two miles from the Spit.
On the 30th the Lady Nelson came up with the Investigator anchoring near her at sunset. After leaving Sandy Cape, Captain Flinders found that the trend of the land differed noticeably from that laid down by Cook in his chart. On August 7th Port Curtis was discovered and on the 21st Port Bowen, but by October 17th, when off the c.u.mberland Isles (a group off the east coast of Queensland in 20 degrees south), the Lady Nelson had become so unfit for service that she had to be sent back to Sydney.
The vessels at the time were within the Great Barrier Reef, and Flinders states that he kept the brig with him until a pa.s.sage out to sea clear of the reefs could be found. "It is a matter of much concern to me," he writes to Banks,* (* See letters of Flinders to Banks. Add. ma.n.u.scripts, British Museum.) "that this navigation could not be surmounted without such a loss of anchors to both vessels and of damage...to the Lady Nelson in the loss of her main keel and the damage done to the trunk." It was also found that her capacity of beating to windward, never great, was much reduced. And again in his journal he says, "the Lady Nelson sailed so ill and had become so leewardly since the loss of the main and part of the after keel that she not only caused us delay but ran great risk of being lost." Therefore, much as he desired the aid of the small vessel, Flinders decided to proceed on his voyage alone.
Soon after he had separated from Flinders, Murray, in order to spare the Lady Nelson's sole remaining anchor, gave orders for two swivel guns crossed, to be lashed together, and when winds were light and waters smooth, he anch.o.r.ed with the swivels until the carpenter was able to make an ironbark anchor to take their place. In the following pages Murray relates the full story of the Lady Nelson's voyage both when she was with the Investigator and also after the two ships had parted company.
WITH THE INVESTIGATOR.
THE LADY NELSON ON DISCOVERY IN COMPANY WITH H.M.S. INVESTIGATOR.
"Thursday, July 22nd, 1802. Preparing for sea. At 2 P.M. the Investigator made the signal for all persons to return on board. At 3 P.M. weighed and made sail down the harbour: by 1/2 past 7, cleared the Heads; 1/2 past 9 North Head of Port Jackson, south-south-west distant 18 miles.
"Friday, July 23rd. At 4 P.M. the Coal Island bore north by east 15 or 16 miles and the South Head of Port Stephens north-north-east 20 or 22 miles...Received orders to keep ahead during the night and show a light now and then, steering north-east by east. At 8 spoke the Commander who told us to keep in his wake.
"Sat.u.r.day, July 24th. At half-past 5 P.M. the Commander made the signal to come within hail, spoke him and was ordered to keep near him during night.
"Sunday, July 25th. From noon until 11 P.M. gale continued with a high sea which continually broke on board. At daylight we perceived from the land that a southern current ran so strong that we were nearly in the same place as at noon...
"Monday, July 26th. Standing down along sh.o.r.e. By 4 P.M. saw what we supposed was a ship and supposed it to be the Investigator, accordingly stood in for her, but a squall of rain coming on hindered our seeing her; fired a gun but no answer was received, at 8 fired a second gun with a light at the masthead but got no answer...Bore north-north-east and to our surprise by midnight found ourselves close to a very high head of land which owing to being covered with clouds we did not before see.* (*
Point Danger.) Turned up the hands and made all sail and by 1 A.M. with much difficulty we cleared it...
"Monday, July 27th. At 2 P.M. Solitary Islands bore west by north distant 7 miles.
"Wednesday, July 28th. At 1 P.M. Mount Warning bore west by north distant 15 or 16 miles...At daylight saw the land from west-south-west to N.W.S., noon the northern end of Moreton Island bore west by north distant 5 or 6 leagues.* (* Flinders examined Moreton Bay and Pumicestone River in 1799 but Oxley made the discovery that Point Lookout was situated on Stradbroke Island and that Moreton Bay extended as far south as 28 degrees where it communicated with the sea.)
"Thursday, July 29th. At 8 A.M. Double Island Point bore north-west by west about 5 or 6 miles. Stood into Wide Bay in hopes of finding the Investigator there, as we stood round the northern end of Double Island saw a number of natives who waved their hands to us; all round the bay were numbers of fires. In the mouth and on the south side of Wide Bay* (*
Coast of Queensland.) lie two rocks with bold water round them, not laid down in the chart, and those rocks bare from the north end of Double Island north-east by north distance 1 1/2 miles.
"Friday, July 30th. At 5 P.M. the north extremes of the land bore north 1/2 east distant 15 or 16 miles. Observed numerous natives all along the coast. At sunrise Indian Head bore north-north-west distant 3 miles, as we neared it, counted 25 natives on it. Made all sail for Sandy Cape and by 11 A.M. entered a pa.s.sage between two reefs, at the same time from the masthead saw the Investigator bearing north-west distant about 10 or 11 miles.* (* The Investigator had anch.o.r.ed under Breaksea Spit about 9 miles north-north-east from Sandy Cape.)
"Sat.u.r.day, July 31st. Fine weather. At 2 P.M. on the turn of tide sent the boat ahead to tow, hove up, and made all sail; cleared the shoals that surrounded this reef. The Investigator standing down to us sent a boat with the Master on board to give a.s.sistance if wanted, at half-past 4 P.M. ye Commander came to; at 5 P.M. we also came to in 4 fathoms of water--bottom fine sand and waited on ye Commander. At half-past 6 A.M.
hove up and made sail in sh.o.r.e and at half-past 8 A.M. came to near enough to cover the landing of the boats of both vessels. Captain Flinders and a number of the officers and gentlemen landed and I went on sh.o.r.e with an armed party in order to get wood. In a little time Captain Flinders and his party were joined by about 30 of the natives all of whom laid down their arms and we continued on friendly terms with them all the time the parties were on sh.o.r.e. Captain Flinders made them presents of red caps, tomahawks, etc. with which they were much pleased and gave back some baskets and nets. With respect to the persons of these natives, I perceived little or no difference from the Sydney blacks; their language is much different, as Bungaree could not understand a word they said.* (*
"These people were entirely naked but were more 'fleshy' than those at Port Jackson perhaps from being able to obtain a better supply of fish with "scoop nets" which are not known on the southern coast. A species of panda.n.u.s grew here in abundance and the valleys contained trees of the Casuarina and Eucalyptus." Flinders.)
"Sunday, August 1st. Fine weather. At 2 P.M. the gentlemen with their parties returned to the beach. We all embarked in the Investigator's boat, got on board the Lady Nelson; at 3 P.M. came to in 5 fathoms, Captain Flinders then left us. At 7 P.M. the Commodore weighed; hove up and followed him with all sail. At noon saw the looming of Sandy Cape east by south 7 or 8 leagues.
"Monday, August 2nd. Fine weather. At 1 P.M. Commodore on our lee beam 2 miles; quarter past 5 P.M. the Commodore came to, at half-past we came to under the stern of the Commodore. At 6 A.M. got under weigh. At 10 A.M.
answered signal to come within hail, the Commodore desired we would keep in sh.o.r.e of him.
"Tuesday, August 3rd. Fine weather. At 4 P.M. Bustard Bay bore west-north-west distant 3 or 4 miles. On this point a very large fire was burning and numbers of natives were there. Hauled in for the Bay and shoaled our water; came to in 5 fathoms water. At sundown lowered down small boats and waited on the Commander. At 6 A.M. made sail with the Investigator, pa.s.sed the first rock lying off the western point of Bustard Bay.
Wednesday, August 4th. At half-past 3 perceived one of the Investigator's boats to be adrift, bore away to pick her up. At sundown the western extremes of the land bore west-south-west distant 15 miles. At 8 P.M.
pa.s.sed the stern of the Commodore who hailed us and told us he would tack every two hours during the night. At daylight saw the land bearing south-south-east. At noon the northern point of Bustard Bay bore south-south-east distant 4 or 5 leagues.
"Thursday, August 5th. Kept slipping along the land. At half-past 6 P.M.
having run under the stern of the Commodore came to.* (* "This anchorage was 5 or 6 miles from Gatcombe Head and the chain of hills which rises near Bustard Bay was seen to stretch westward behind the sh.o.r.e at the back of Mount Larcom. These hills had a barren appearance, the coast being more rocky than sandy." Flinders.) At quarter past 10 A.M. the Commodore made signal I see an opening, answered ditto. Immediately after answered signal "steer in sh.o.r.e and look out for anchorage." Observing numbers of natives and canoes on the beach, kept running in. At quarter past 10 A.M. beheld from our masthead a large sheet of water with a rocky island in the entrance and seemingly got shelter.* (* Port Number 1 in the chart is Port Curtis so named by Captain Flinders after Sir Roger Curtis.) At 11 A.M. came to in 3 fathoms water and made the signal to the Commodore "come no nearer in," and he came to--lowered down our boat, I went and sounded in sh.o.r.e and found the water to deepen to 8 fathoms.
Waited on the Commodore, received orders to follow his boat into the harbour--sent our people to heave up. At noon one of the Investigator's boats went on sh.o.r.e to the beach where the natives and their canoes were.* (* "There were seven bark canoes lying on the sh.o.r.e and upon a tree near hung parts of a turtle and scoop nets similar to those at Hervey Bay." Flinders.)
"Friday, August 6th. At 1 P.M. hove up and run further into the opening.
I then went on sh.o.r.e to a small rocky island on which Captain Flinders was taking angles and we got some firewood. I went in Captain Flinders'
boat across to a middling high hill* (* Called in the chart Hill View.) on the opposite side of this stream, got to the top and saw that the sheet of water ran into several serpentine branches and that apparently the deepest water was to the south-east of us; and that this south-east entrance and the one in which we lay formed a pretty large island lying in a north-west and south-east line. We joined the boat and sounded in a traverse to ascertain whether it was possible for the Lady Nelson to move higher up. We found however only from 3 to 5 feet of water and foul ground throughout a narrow s.p.a.ce through which the vessel must pa.s.s. In consequence of which Captain Flinders desired me to get under weigh and work round the island to the south-east entrance and to find a channel into the harbour. Accordingly weighed, by 7 P.M. pa.s.sed the Investigator.
At daylight made all sail to gain the entrance and by 9 A.M. nearly fetched it, from the masthead at the time I saw a long range of breakers from the entrance stretching away south-east to east-south-east which made me to be in some doubts as to an entrance existing, however I sent Mr. Hacking in the boat to sound and almost immediately we struck on a sandbank. Immediately hove up our keels and she luckily veered round in 6 feet of water and went off although we still had no more water for some time, it then gradually deepened into 6 fathoms. Fired a gun for the boat who got on board by noon and informed me that a good channel did exist, and from where we were it lay about south-south-east and may be 3/4 of a mile broad--out sweep and sent the boat ahead to tow.
"Sat.u.r.day, August 7th. Fine weather. Standing into the entrance south-south-west. On putting our helm to starboard we immediately had from 1 1/2 3, steering west-north-west, the Investigator on our beam bearing about north-north-east distant 8 miles, and finding our water suddenly to shoal came to in 2 fathoms and observed that a little way ahead lay a long sand sheet almost dry. Tripped our anchor and run into 5 fathoms water and there came to.* (* Off South-trees Point.) Fired a gun as a signal to the Commodore; observed a boat under sail a considerable distance from us in a westerly direction which I fancied was Captain Flinders in his whaleboat examining the harbour. At sunrise had out our launch and sent the First Mate in her with an armed party in search of water.
"Sunday, August 8th. After dinner I went in the small boat to examine an opening on the South sh.o.r.e of the harbour and to look for water of which I found some, on proceeding about a mile and a half up the opening perceived it branched into several different directions. I imagine it runs some considerable distance up into the country. On returning to the vessel I found Captain Flinders with a midshipman and boat's crew on board.* (* "The country round Port Curtis is over-spread with gra.s.s and produces the Eucalyptus. Much of the sh.o.r.es and low islands are overspread with Mangroves--the most common being the Rhizophora Mangle of Linn." Flinders.) At daylight Captain Flinders left us desiring me to get under weigh as soon as possible and get round to the Investigator. In working down we sounded constantly and found from 10 to 4 fathoms on each side, a safe channel for any ship and sufficiently broad to work in.
"Monday, August 9th. At 3 P.M. got under weigh and made sail out of the harbour tacking occasionally. At 4 P.M. our boat came on board from Faceing Island having found water in small quant.i.ties. By 6 P.M. we weathered the south-east point of Faceing Island and stood down towards the Investigator. At 15 past 7 P.M. struck on some sunken reef of rocks about 2 miles from the sh.o.r.e but immediately heaving up all our keels she went over them into deeper water without any damage.* (* See August 22nd.
Half of the main keel was afterwards found gone.) At half-past 8 P.M.
fired a gun and hoisted a light at the masthead which was answered by the Investigator. By midnight came to with the small bower about 2 cables lengths from the Commodore. At daylight hoisted in our boat, on the Commodore getting under weigh, we did the same. At half-past 9 A.M.
pa.s.sed in between the Rocky Island and Cape Capricorn. At half-past 10 Captain Flinders hailed us and told us to try for a pa.s.sage in between some rocks and the main of Keppel's Bay. At 50 minutes past 11 A.M.
perceived all foul ground ahead in this pa.s.sage, hauled out and informed the Commodore. At noon bore up for the western part of the Bay, Cape Capricorn bearing east by south distance 10 or 11 miles.
"Tuesday, August 10th. At half-past 3 P.M. came to one cable length from the Investigator, lowered our boat and I waited on Captain Flinders. At half-past 4 P.M. Captain Flinders, some of his officers and I went on sh.o.r.e. On ascending one of the highest hills,* (* Named by Flinders Sea Hill.) we perceived the bay to be very extensive with several openings.
Here we found a fresh water swamp and saw some ducks and redbills. At sundown Captain Flinders and party returned on board, and Captain Flinders came on board. Weighed and made all sail up the bay. Come to in 3 fathoms a large island in the mouth of the bay North distance 7 or 8 miles.
"Wednesday, August 11th. Saw Captain Flinders come out of the entrance he yesterday went into and stand along the south sh.o.r.e of the bay.
"Thursday, August 12th. At 3 P.M. Commodore made the signal "I want to speak to you." Immediately got the vessel under weigh and by half-past 4 P.M. pa.s.sed his stern when he hailed us to come to an anchor a little distance from him. I waited on Captain Flinders who told me that at daylight I was to get under weigh and proceed to a large island* (*
Hummocky Island.) (one of Keppels) and overhaul it for turtle for the use of both vessels and to get the bearings of all the islands in sight from the top of the said island as also to find whether there were wood and water upon the island. When we anch.o.r.ed Outermost Rock east-south-east 2 miles.
"Friday, August 13th. At 1 P.M. I went on sh.o.r.e to the island, on examining the beaches and rocks no water was found. I ascended all the hills and walked from one to the other nearly the whole length of the island but found no water or wood. The hills are covered with thick shrubbery and gra.s.s and full of stones, from the top of the highest part of it and looking towards the sea no more islands are to be seen than those we saw coming in. On going down to the rocks that lead to the beach we fell in with some slight drains of fresh water and further discovered two chasms in the rock, in each there might be 150 or 200 gallons of water but the difficulty of getting it to a boat hinders it being of use to vessels. On the west side is a small bight with a sandy beach in its centre but the bottom is loose and always a swell tumbling into it, indeed anchorage all round it is indifferent.
"Sat.u.r.day, August 14th. By 4 P.M. having run nearly into our anchorage by the Investigator came to in 5 fathoms water. Lieutenant Fowler came on board and informed me that Captain Flinders was not yet returned from examining the harbour.
"Sunday, August 15th. Fine weather throughout. Received orders to be ready to get under weigh at daylight to-morrow morning.
"Monday, August 16th. At sundown observed all the seamen on liberty from the Investigator and Lady Nelson coming along the beach accompanied by a number of natives. Immediately Lieutenant Fowler and some of the gentlemen of the Investigator along with myself went on sh.o.r.e but on seeing us they began to run; however on all the seamen being sent away they suffered Mr. Brown to go near enough to reach them a few red night-caps and a tomahawk.* (* "I offered a boat to the botanists to visit South Hill. A part of the Ship's Company was allowed on sh.o.r.e for no Indians had been seen, but towards evening about 20 were seen with the sailors. They had been met near Cape Keppel and at first menaced our people, but finding them friendly laid aside their arms." Flinders.) They then made signs to us to be gone. They began running and were soon out of sight. These natives are a much stouter cla.s.s of people than any I have yet seen (those of Jarvis Bay excepted). On returning to the beach Mr.
Evans, mate, and one of the seamen belonging to the Investigator were missing. Lieutenant Fowler and the rest of the gentlemen waited until dark in hopes of their appearing and then went on board and a boat with a midshipman was immediately sent to wait at the beach but as neither appeared the boat returned. In the morning two guns were fired from the Investigator as signals and we saw two boats go to sh.o.r.e we supposed to search for those missing.
"Tuesday, August 17th. Seventeen of the natives came down to the beach.
On seeing them a number of the officers of the Investigator went on sh.o.r.e. I also went.* (* Captain Flinders took a boat to Cape Keppel in order to obtain bearings.) We continued on friendly terms with them all day, and it is worth remarking that they having met Mr. Evans and the one seamen led them down to the beach and even gave them a duck each to eat on their making signs of their hunger. We had a drum, fife and fiddle on sh.o.r.e with us but on playing and beating they signified their displeasure and some of them ran off but on our ceasing returned. We made them presents of caps, tomahawks, etc., but they would give nothing in return.
Their spears and waddas are much the same as at Sydney, they don't use the throwing stick. At daylight weighed. Came to again.* (* It took the whole day to get into the offing. A sketch of the island and of Cape Keppel was made by Mr. Westall while beating out of the bay. "After the mangrove the most common trees round Keppel Bay are the eucalyptus and a species of Cycas bearing poisonous nuts. There are Kangaroos in the woods and several bustards were seen near Cape Keppel. About the native fireplaces were the sh.e.l.ls of crabs, the bones of turtle and remains of fern root." Flinders.)
"Wednesday, August 18th. At 1 P.M. hove up in the company with the Investigator tacked occasionally. By 4 P.M. cleared the bay and at 5 P.M.
fell calm. Came to with kedge Cape Capricorn bearing south-east by east 13 or 14 miles, Cape Keppel south-south-east distant 5 or 6 miles and a large inhabited island, one of Keppel's, north-north-west distant 6 or 7 miles. At daylight again in company with Commodore made all sail. By noon pa.s.sed abreast the northernmost Keppel's Island. Observed two natives on the highest part of it bellowing to us, no canoes in sight. Lat.i.tude 23 degrees 4 minutes 37 seconds south.
"Thursday, August 19th. Fine weather. Answered signal "Steer in sh.o.r.e and look out for anchorage" a bluff head making with the low land of the main like an entrance. As we stood in shoaled our water to 7 fathoms, made the signal to that purport. Saw a sand shoal ahead; the Investigator immediately hauled off and we did the same, saw plainly no anchorage was there, stood in and by 5 P.M. we dropped our kedge, at half-past 5 P.M.
the Commodore also came to near us. At sundown the easternmost of Keppel's Islands bore south-east by east distant 10 or 12 miles the sh.o.r.e point south distant 2 miles. At 7 A.M. weighed in company with the Investigator.
"Friday, August 20th. At sundown the Commodore bore north distant about 3 miles, the Sugar Loaf Island north-north-east 1/2 east distant 4 miles, and two rocky islands north-east by east distant about 3 miles. At quarter-past 9 P.M. saw a light in the north-west quarter and heard a gun fired. Immediately hoisted a light in the main top gallant masthead and fired a gun; heard no second gun. At 12 pa.s.sed a low island bearing east distant 3/4 of a mile. At daylight perceived we were much farther from the land than the Log gave. Commodore not in sight. Lat.i.tude observed 22 degrees 41 minutes 28 seconds south.