Historical Description of Westminster Abbey Part 19
The north side of the Church, between the west front and the Transept, is supported by nine graduated b.u.t.tresses; each has a turreted niche, wherein are placed full length statues of the founders and princ.i.p.al benefactors of this Church.
The towers at the west end were raised under the directions of Sir Christopher Wren, and terminate with pinnacles at the height of two hundred and twenty-five feet. _The Exterior_ length of the Abbey is four hundred and sixteen feet; including Henry Seventh's Chapel, five hundred and thirty feet.
Having now pointed out what is accounted most worthy of observation in the construction of this ancient Abbey, both without and within it, we shall next say a word or two of--
Henry Seventh's Chapel.
This _wonder of the world_, as it well may be styled, is adorned without with sixteen Gothic towers, beautifully ornamented with admirable ingenuity, and jutting from the building in different angles. It is situated on the east of the Abbey to which it is so neatly joined, that at a superficial view it appears to be one and the same building. It is enlightened by a double range of windows, that throw the light into such a happy disposition, as at once to please the eye and inspire reverence.
An author some years ago, has very highly, and yet not undeservedly expressed the beauty of this Chapel in the following words:--"It is the admiration of the universe; such inimitable perfection appears in every part of the whole composure, which looks so far exceeding human excellence, that it appears knit together by the fingers of angels, pursuant to the direction of Omnipotence."
And here we cannot help taking notice of a most beautiful window that was designed for this Chapel. It was made by order of the magistrates of Dort, in Holland, and designed by them as a present to Henry VII., but that monarch dying before it was finished, it was set up in Waltham Abbey, where it remained till the dissolution of that monastery, when it was removed to New-Hall, in Ess.e.x, then in possession of General Monk, and by him preserved during the civil wars. Some years ago, John Olmius, Esq., the then possessor of New-Hall, sold it to Mr. Conyers, of Copt-Hall, who resold it to the inhabitants of St. Margaret's parish, in 1758, for four hundred guineas; and it now adorns St Margaret's Church. Thus it has arrived near to the place for which it was originally intended, but is never likely to reach it. The grand subject is that of our Saviour's crucifixion; but there are many subordinate figures: those at the bottom of the two side panels represent Henry VII., and his Queen, and were taken from the original pictures sent to Dort for that purpose. Over the King is the figure of St. George, and above that a white rose and a red one.
Over the figure of the Queen stands that of St. Katharine of Alexandria; and in the panel over her head appears a pomegranate _vert_, in a field of _or_, the arms of the kingdom of Grenada.
_General Admeasurements of the Exterior of Henry VII.'s Chapel._
Ft. In.
Extreme Length 115 2 Breadth to the Extremities of the b.u.t.tress Towers 79 6 Height of the b.u.t.tress Towers 70 8 Do. to the Apex of the Roof 85 6 Do. to the Top of the Western Turrets 101 6
Of the Monuments in the Cloisters.
There are many persons of distinction buried in the Cloisters, as will appear from the number of inscriptions, many of which are almost obliterated from wear or time; we shall therefore only notice a few of the most particular. The most ancient are in the South Walk of the Cloisters, towards the east end, where you will see the remains of four Abbots, marked in the pavement by four stones. The first is inscribed to the Abbot VITALIS, who died in 1082; and was formerly covered with plates of bra.s.s.
The second is a stone of grey marble, to the memory of GESLEBERTUS CRISPINUS, who died in 1114. The third is a raised stone, of Suss.e.x marble, under which lies interred the Abbot LAURENTIUS, who died in 1176, and is said to have been the first who obtained from Pope Alexander III.
the privilege of using the Mitre, Ring, and Glove. The fourth is of black marble, called Long Meg, from its extraordinary length of eleven feet ten inches, by five feet ten inches, and covers the ashes of GERVASIUS DE BLOIS, natural son of King Stephen, who died 1106. All these seem to have had their names and dates cut afresh, and are indeed fragments worthy to be preserved.
In 1349 twenty-six of the monks of this Abbey fell victims to a dreadful plague which at that period had extended its ravages over great part of the globe, and are reported by Fuller to have been buried all in one grave in the South Cloisters, under the remarkable large stone called Long Meg.
Against the wall is a monument to PETER FRANCIS COURAYER, a Roman Catholic clergyman, born at Vernon, in Normandy, 1681. He was Canon and Librarian of the Abbey of Genevieve, at Paris. He translated and published several valuable works. In 1727 he took refuge in England, and was well received, and presented by the University of Oxford with the degree of D.D. On his dedicating a book to Queen Caroline, his pension was augmented to 200 per annum from 100 which he had obtained before from the court. He died, in 1776, after two days' illness, at the age of ninety-five.
At the end of this walk is the monument of DANIEL PULTENEY, who served the court several years; abroad in the reign of Queen Anne, and at home in the reign of George I. The following is the inscription:--"Reader, if thou art a Briton, behold this tomb with reverence and regret! Here lie the remains of Daniel Pulteney, the kindest relation, the truest friend, the warmest patriot, the worthiest man! He exercised virtues in his age, sufficient to have distinguished him even in the best. Sagacious by nature, industrious by habit, inquisitive with art, he gained a complete knowledge of the state of Britain, foreign and domestic; in most, the backward fruit of tedious experience; in him, the early acquisition of undissipated youth. He served the court several years; abroad, in the auspicious reign of Queen Anne; at home, in the reign of that excellent Prince, George I. He served his country always; at court independent, in the senate unbia.s.sed. At every age, and at every station, this was the bent of his generous soul, this the business of his laborious life; public men and public things he judged by one common standard--_the true interest of Britain_; he made no other distinction of party; he abhorred all other.
Gentle, humane, disinterested, benevolent, he created no enemies on his own account; firm, determined, inflexible, he feared none he could create in the cause of Britain. Reader, in this misfortune of thy country, lament thy own; for know, the loss of so much private virtue is a public calamity."
EAST WALK.
Near the iron gate is a tablet sacred to the memory of the Rev. THOMAS VIALLS, of Twickenham, Middles.e.x, A.M., many years vicar of Boldre, in the New Forest, who departed this life May 7, 1831, aged sixty-two.
To the left is a very beautiful arch, beneath which is a doorway leading to the Chapter House and Library; in front of which was buried Abbot BYRCHESTON, who died of the plague, May 15, 1349; but no stone left to mark the place of his interment.
Against the wall, in the centre of the East Walk, is a monument to the memory of GEORGE WALSH, Esq., with the following inscription:--"Near this place are deposited the remains of George Walsh, Esq., late Lieutenant-General of his Majesty's Forces, and Colonel of the forty-ninth Regiment of Foot, who died October 23, 1761, aged seventy-three.
"The toils of life and pangs of death are o'er, And care, and pain, and sickness, are no more."
To the memory of JAMES WILLIAM DODD, who for thirty-four years was one of the Ushers of Westminster School, the duties of which he discharged with consummate ability. The Westminsters, his pupils, resident at the boarding-house under his immediate care, have, bewailing his loss, caused this tablet to be erected. He died on the 29th day of August, 1818, in the fifty-seventh year of his age.
Beneath is a monument to preserve and unite the memory of two affectionate brothers, valiant soldiers and sincere Christians: SCIPIO DUROURE, Esq., Adjutant-General of the British Forces, Colonel of the twelfth Regiment of Foot, and Captain or Keeper of his Majesty's Castle of St. Mawes, in Cornwall, who, after forty-one years' faithful services, was mortally wounded at the battle of Fontenoy, and died May 10, 1745, aged fifty-six years, and lies interred on the ramparts of Aeth, in the low Countries; and ALEXANDER DUROURE, Esq., Lieutenant-General of the British Forces, Colonel of the Fourth, or King's own Regiment of Foot, and Captain or Keeper of his Majesty's Castle of St. Mawes, in Cornwall, who, after fifty-seven years of faithful services, died at Toulouse, in France, on the 2nd January, 1795, aged seventy-four years, and lies interred in this Cloister.
In the next arch has been lately erected a tablet, sacred to the memory of WALTER HAWKES, who, serving in the East Indies, and having deserved well during the s.p.a.ce of more than twenty-seven years, almost worn out with sickness and wounds, as he was now returning to his native country, being overtaken by a storm in the Indian Ocean, was, together with his dearest wife, the partner of his life and danger, alas! swallowed up, and perished by shipwreck, never to be too much lamented, the year of our Lord 1808.
Struck with so sad a fate of his companion, William Franklin put up this stone; for both were King's scholars in this school, brought up in the same studies, together endured arduous warfare.
NORTH WALK.
On the left, near the door, is a marble slab to the memory of JOHN CATLING, who died March 3, 1826, in the seventy-ninth year of his age. He was Verger and Sacrist, successively, of this Collegiate Church under five Deans, the duties of which he performed with the most zealous and undivided attention, for the long period of fifty-two years, respected by his superiors for the fidelity, respectability, and humility, with which he filled the offices, and beloved by all who knew him in private life, for the many virtues which adorn the man. Lady LONDONDERRY was buried underneath it.
A tablet to the memory of HARRIET, wife of the Rev. John Bentall, one of the Ushers of Westminster School. She died August 7, 1838.
The next is an epitaph remarkable for its quaintness, and inscribed to the memory of WILLIAM LAURENCE, in these lines:--
"With diligence and truth most exemplary, Did William Laurence serve a Prebendary; And for his pains, now past, before not lost, Gain'd this remembrance at his master's cost.
Oh! read these lines again!--you seldom find A servant faithful, and a master kind.
Short-hand he wrote; his flower in prime did fade, And hasty death short-hand of him hath made.
Well couth he numbers, and well-measured land; Thus doth he now that ground whereon you stand, Wherein he lies so geometrical: Art maketh some, but thus doth nature all."
_Ob. Dec. 28, 1628, aetat. 29._
A tablet to the Rev. GEORGE PRESTON, A.M., who was several years Under-Master of Westminster School. He died September 8, 1841, aged fifty-two.
Near to this is a tablet lately erected to the memory of WILLIAM MARKHAM, D.D., Archbishop of York, who died November, 1807, aged eighty-eight, and was buried near this spot.
On your left is a tablet to the memory of EDWARD AUGUSTUS WEBBER, a King's scholar, son of James Webber, D.D., Dean of Ripon, and Canon of this Church; who was drowned in the River Thames, June 11, 1833, aged seventeen, and buried near this spot. The inscription is as follows:--"H.S.M. Edoardus Augustus Webber, Jacobi Webber, S.T.P., ecclesae Riponensis Decani, et hujusce Praebendarii filius natu secundus in amne Thamesi, eversa turbine navicula e quatuor mersis adolicentibus unus periit die 11 Junii, 1833, anum agent 17mo. Alumno suavissimo desideratissimo, id quod parentes miseri perferre nequibant, praeceptores condiscipulique tranquam fratrem lugertes ademptum pro more ac pietate Westmonasteriensi exequias reddiderunt."
The last worthy of note in this Walk is that to the memory of WILLIAM EGERTON GELL, Esq., who, after a long and severe affliction, departed this life on the 17th of May, 1838, aged fifty-six years; in him many will have to deplore the loss of a generous and kind-hearted friend. "Comfort the soul of thy servant, for unto thee, O Lord, do I lift up my soul."--_Cundy, sculptor._
WEST WALK.
On the left door of the Abbey is a monument, erected by John English Dolben, Esq., "To the memory of EDWARD WORTLEY MONTAGUE, who was cast away, on his return to England, in 1777, from the East Indies, in the twenty-seventh year of his age. In memory of their friendship, which commenced at Westminster School, continued for some time at Oxford, not diminished by the greatest distance, scarcely dissolved by death, and if it please G.o.d, to be renewed in heaven.--J. E. D., to whom the deceased bequeathed his books (and appointed joint residuary legatee), erected this monument."
FRANCIS SMEDLEY.--Adjoining the G.o.dolphin monument is a neat tablet to the memory of the above, who was High Bailiff of Westminster for twenty-two years. Born September 15, 1791; died February 25, 1859.
The next is a monument that deserves particular attention, as it commemorates a charity, which otherwise might, in time, like many others, be perverted or forgotten. The inscription is as follows:--"Here rest, in hope of a blessed resurrection, CHARLES G.o.dOLPHIN, Esq., brother of the Right Honourable Sydney, Earl of G.o.dolphin, Lord High Treasurer of Great Britain, who died July 16, 1720, aged sixty-nine; and Mrs. G.o.dOLPHIN, his wife, who died July 29, 1726, aged sixty-three; whose excellent qualities and endowments can never be forgotten, particularly the public-spirited zeal with which he served his country in Parliament, and the indefatigable application, great skill, and nice integrity, with which he discharged the trust of a Commissioner of Customs for many years. Nor was she less eminent for her ingenuity, with sincere love of her friends, and constancy in religious worship. But as charity and benevolence were the distinguishing parts of their characters, so were they most conspicuously displayed by the last act of their lives: a pious and charitable inst.i.tution, by him designed and ordered, and by her completed to the glory of G.o.d, and for a bright example to mankind; the endowment whereof is a rent-charge of one hundred and eighty pounds a-year, issuing out of lands in Somersetshire, and of which, one hundred and sixty pounds a year are to be ever applied, from 24th June, 1726, to the educating eight young gentlewomen, who are so born, and whose parents are of the Church of England, whose parents or friends will undertake to provide them with decent apparel; and after the death of the said Mrs. G.o.dolphin, and William G.o.dolphin, Esq., her nephew, such as have neither father or mother; which said young gentlewomen are not to be admitted before they are eight years old, nor to be continued after the age of nineteen, and are to be brought up in the city of New Sarum, or some other town in the county of Wilts, under the care of some prudent governess or schoolmistress, a communicant of the Church of England; and the overplus, after an allowance of 5. a-year for collecting the said rent-charge, is to be applied to binding out one or more poor children apprentices, whose parents are of the Church of England. In perpetual memory whereof Mrs.
Frances Hall, executrix to her aunt, Mrs. G.o.dolphin, has, according to her will, and by her order, caused this inscription to be engraven on their monument, 1772."
The next is a neat tablet, in memory of the Rev. EDWARD SMEDLEY, A.M., Rector of Powderham, and of North Bovey, in the county of Devon, and from 1774 to 1820, one of the Ushers of Westminster School; born Nov. 5, 1750, died August 6, 1825. Also of HANNAH, his wife, daughter of George Bellas, Esq.; born August 21, 1754, died October 17, 1824. This tablet is erected by their surviving children.
"To you, dear names, these filial thanks we give, For more than life, for knowledge how to live-- For many a rule with holy wisdom fraught, And works embodying the creed you taught; For faith triumphant, tho' the lips which told Its glowing lessons, now, alas! are cold; Faith, which proclaiming that the dead but sleep, Invites us home to those whom here we weep."
--_Westmacott, jun., sculptor._